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As I mentioned in the very first post (called “S#*t You See in México”) on this damn site that my husband, Todd, more or less forced me to start a blog while road tripping through México. “It’s good for SEO,” he said. “It will bring you more business,” he said. “You are going to lose a majority of your hair trying to come up with material,” he DID NOT say.
Oh well, hopefully someone somewhere gets a little joy out of said blog. I must admit that it has been fun taking hilarious photos while road tripping through México for almost 2 years now. Therefore, it is officially time to show you more funny shit.
I know some of these are not flattering of me, but fuck it. These are in no particular order of importance or chronology…they just make me laugh. So there.
I figured I would also put together a list of my favorite things from my journey through this beautiful country. I don’t have photos of all of them, but these are some highlights…
Favorite Beach: Playa Yelapa. A one hour boat ride from Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco and famous for the saying, “I’d rather have a palapa in Yelapa than a condo in Redondo.” When I say boat ride, I mean that you can’t get there any other way.
Favorite Brunch: Gaspar in the Colonia Americana section of Guadalajara is known for having the best hamburgers in town. That’s true, but their wicked strong martinis and french fries covered in scrambled eggs and garlic truffle oil makes any Sunday a Funday. Also, they are super dog friendly. Deuce approved!
Favorite Restaurant: MOG Bistro in Roma Norte, México City. A tasty fusion of asian cuisine, kick ass sushi, Oaxacan mezcal and waitstaff sporting Carhardt onesies.
Favorite Pozoleria: Pozoleria Matamoros in the Los Sapos section of Puebla, Puebla. Pozole is the world’s best soup. You know you are in the right spot when there’s a wait to get in and the place is full of families, construction workers and zero.zero gringos.
Favorite Cantina: La Fuga de Don Porfirio in Los Sapos, Puebla, Puebla. Good old TexMex Fun Stuff’s Lucha Libre Papel Picado proudly hangs above the bar. Tell the owner Paco I said, “hola, bitch!”
Favorite Mezcalería: El Destilado in Oaxaco Centro, Oaxaca. Cheap happy hour specials on mezcal cocktails, shots and tacos. Plus they have a killer view from the rooftop bar!
Favorite Pulquería: Cálendula Pulquería in Los Sapos in downtown Puebla. Don’t be scared cause it looks like snot. Just order the cucumber lime pulque with a shot of mezcal. Trust me! #Icanbetrusted
Favorite Day Trip: Jose Cuervo Express Train from Guadalajara to Tequila and back…although I don’t remember much of the “back” part. I’m not proud of this picture above. This occurred on the way “back”.
Favorite Drive: Puebla City to Oaxaca City on Tollroad 135D. Majestic mountains, valleys, cacti, tunnels and sketchy AF roads. Freaking beautiful.
Favorite Flight: A single engine prop plane on Aerotucán more or less hovers over the mountains and fields from Oaxaca City to the beautiful beaches of Puerto Escondido, Oaxaca. 45 minutes of picture taking magic.
Favorite Park: Chapultepec Park in México City. Wander from the world famous Anthropology Museum through the endlessly shaded sidewalks up to the Chapultepec Castle which sits at the top of a huge hill. It used to be a military school where teenage Mexican soldiers fought the Spanish for México’s independence. They lost, but hey. Castles are sexy.
Favorite Hike: La Malinche is a mountain one hour due east of Puebla, Puebla. It is technically in the state of Tlaxacala and makes for a challenging day hike as it peaks at 14,400 feet above sea level. And I know this for a fact because my husband climbed it and I didn’t.
Favorite Lucha Libre Venue: Arena Puebla in Puebla, Puebla. Cold beer, hot sweat and lots of cussing. Not too big, not too small, loud as fuck.
Favorite Mercado: Mercado De Artesanias La Ciudadela (Artisan Market) is in the Ciudadela neighborhood (a 5 minute cab ride from Roma) of México City. Handmade everything from all over México and there’s a bar in the middle!
Favorite Shopping: Independencia Avenue in Tlaquepaque, a Pueblo Mágico outside of Guadalajara, Jalisco. I could stroll down this pedestrian only street forever. Galleries, shops, restaurants, street vendors and it is covered by thousands of colorful umbrellas!
Favorite Co-working Space: Workósfera in Puebla, Puebla. The original location is in the Los Sapos section of Centro in a colonial mansion. The newest location in the La Paz neighborhood and is in yet another mansion, but this one has a pool! Fast wifi and great people.
Favorite Live Music: Callejoneadas in Guanajuato, Guanajuato. At night, college kids turn into singing minstrels wearing tights. They tour pedestrian only alleys playing instruments and encouraging crowd participation up and down the hills of this beautiful city. Smoking, drinking and singing of course.
Favorite People: Mérida, Yucatán. In all fairness, there isn’t a city in the world that can compete with the community in Mérida. It is my home and it is chock-filled with my people.
As you can see from my list of favorites, in 20 months we have gone from San Miguel de Allende to Guanajuato to México City to Puebla to Mérida to Guadalajara to Puerto Vallarta to Querétaro and back to México City.
We did make it to Oaxaca briefly. As it turns out, Oaxaca is not known for its paper maché. Or for its ass grabbing. Luckily for you, both were captured in this shot…
Welp, that’s all of my pics for now of our journey while road tripping through México. I will spare you the really gross stuff. Plus, I should really get back to work. It is imperative that I shop for more bad ass stuff, from this bad ass country, for your decorative enjoyment! Hasta luego!
Are you looking for more inspiration from México? Check out the TexMex Fun Stuff Blog for more sights, sounds and badass-ness uncovered while exploring México searching for handmade fun stuff for you!
It was a balmy 86º November evening when I found myself slowly shuffling down the main street of Mérida, Yucatan surrounded by a shitload of people carrying candles and dressed as dead people. I was in a crowd of thousands and all I heard was silence. We were quietly walking to the cemetery and I was about to experience my first Day of the Dead, aka Día de los Muertos (Spanish), aka Hanal Pixán (Mayan).
Of course I had heard of Day of the Dead and thought that it was just a bunch of people dressing up like skeletons. “Oh, that’s just like Halloween!” Nope, not a damn thing like Halloween.
I had been living in Mérida for about 10 months by the time October 2011 rolled around. Once October started, everyone in the city began planning for this upcoming, um, holiday?, event?, party?, celebration? The name ‘Day of the Dead’ doesn’t sound like much of a party, but people were acting like this was the most important fiesta of the year.
Day of the Dead is in fact a three day celebration each year from October 31 – November 2nd. It’s an opportunity to commemorate family and friends that have “advanced on their eternal journey.” In the Mexican culture, death is viewed as a natural part of the human cycle. During this time, the living family members pray for the temporary return of their loved ones who now reside in the afterlife/world/place. They share stories of the ancestors who have passed and celebrate their former lives.
Aztecs – Lady of the Dead
The ancient origin of Día de los Muertos in México goes back to the Aztec festival dedicated to the ‘Lady of the Dead’, which in modern times is referred to as La Calavera Catrina. The artist José Guadalupe Posada was the first person to illustrate the goddess in a zinc etching in 1910. She’s super hot, as far as skeletons go.
So anyway, in Aztec mythology, this Lady was named Mictēcacihuātl and was queen of the underworld. She ruled over the afterlife with her hubby. No one ever mentions him, but she was responsible for watching over the bones of the dead and presiding over the ancient festivals of the dead. #respect
The Aztecs in México and central America celebrated Mictēcacihuātl for the entire 8th month of the Aztec calendar year (sometime in the middle of the summer). They partied, danced and sang instead of mourning because being sad for dead people was considered an insult to them. Therefore, they fiesta’ed with food, drink and activities that the dead had enjoyed while they were alive.
The two most familiar symbols of the Aztec version of Day of the Dead are Catrinas and Catrins (dead chicks and dead dudes, respectively). You will either see these images as calacas or calaveras (skulls and skeletons, respectively). The calaveras are always dressed up in colorful outfits and having a blast dancing, drinking, flailing around and generally enjoying the afterlife. If that is what death is all about then rock on!
The calacas, being just dead heads, are usually hanging out on an altar that their family created with a big smile on their face…happily watching the living pay tribute and tell stories about them!
Spanish Catholics – All Saints Day
The Spanish invaded México in the 1500’s and brought with them their Catholic religion. This may not sound very Christian, but basically they made a point of enslaving the Aztecs and telling them their customs and beliefs were stupid. Typical evangelicals. The synthesis of Catholicism with the Aztecs’ tradition results in an adjustment of the dates to make Day of the Dead more in line with existing Catholic death-celebrating holidays.
The Spanish moved the celebration from the 8th month of the Aztec year to October 31st – November 2nd of the Gregorian calendar so that it would land on All Saints and All Souls days. Pushy af, but here’s why…
All Saints Day, according to Christianity.com has this origin…”In the early years when the Roman Empire persecuted Christians, so many martyrs died for their faith, that the Church set aside special days to honor them…In the 8th century, All Saints Day was changed by Pope Gregory III to today’s date–November 1. People prepared for their celebration with a night of vigil on Hallows’ Eve — Halloween (possibly because of the strong holdover influence of the Celtic Samhain festival which many Christians in Ireland, Britain Scotland and Wales had continued to observe).”
Mayans – Hanal Pixán
The Mayans in the Yucatan Peninsula refer to Day of the Dead / Dia de los Muertos as Hanal Pixán and it lasts for 3 days starting October 31st. Sound familiar? Well that’s because the Spanish conquered them too.
Mayan families construct altars in their homes honoring their lost relatives/buddies. These altars include the dead’s favorite food, drinks and games plus they add candles, pictures and symbols of their lives. They even go as far as moving the furniture in their houses to create a pathway from the front door to the altars to help their loved ones’ souls know where to arrive. You know, rearranging all the furniture for guests.
The first night of Hanal Pixán (Oct. 31) is reserved for celebrating the all too short lives of the children whom have passed. Their offerings include toys, chocolates and sweets. The adult souls are not honored until November 1st.
To honor the souls of adults, boozy treats are placed on the altars with candles and their favorite foods. I’m now making a point to start my Day of the Dead celebrations on November 1st for this reason. I’m avoiding the first night because I’m not into kids, especially dead ones. #goingtohell
They close out the 3 day death-fest with a long, slow, silent walk through the center of town. They call it “Paseo de Ánimas” or “Promenade of the Souls”. Everyone wears typical Mayan clothing and have calaca sugar skull faces painted on by street artists. The whole town walks to the main cemetery…so THAT is what I was caught up in that November night in 2011!
Then suddenly the mood changes and a celebration breaks out in the cemetery! It’s magicaland like a scene straight out of Pixar’s Coco. People were actually dancing, laughing and decorating the graves of their loved ones with flowers, candles, pictures and gifts. Beers were popping open. Stark difference from the silent mode we were in for blocks and blocks! I def prefer this part of the ritual.
Gringos – Halloween
I really did think Day of the Dead was the same as Halloween and it turns out I wasn’t completely wrong. Halloween (All Hallows’ Eve) originated in Ireland and is celebrated on October 31st. As you know most Irish are Catholics and they had the same idea as the Spanish when it came to bastardizing holidays.
So basically European Catholics wanted to celebrate the night before All Saints Day. Which is also known as “A Feast for All Saints” OR “All Hallows’ Day”. So Halloween is the eve of this Christian holiday. Traditionally in Ireland, Spain and other Catholic countries, it is common for families to attend church and visit cemeteries in order to lay flowers and candles on the graves of their deceased loved ones. It’s all coming full circle.
So Halloween / All Hallow’s Eve is the night that the descendants of Mayans and Aztecs celebrate the souls of dead children. Somehow this morphed into Americans thinking, “Hey, the way to celebrate the souls of dead children is to form a path of candy and dress up like all the fun things these kids use to love and that will help show their little kid spirits the way home!” Am I going to hell? Probably. Please join me!
Anyway, I was trick-or-treating as a kid in the States on the same night that the Mayans were honoring children’s souls in the Yucatan. It seems blasphemous now, but it was a fabulous idea then and made October my favorite month of the year! It also made November the most sugar crazed hell on Earth for my parents. I do get the connection of luring a spirit back by displaying / handing out things they loved (candy) while they were with us in this life. Check out these comparisons below:
Mexicans really love American traditions. We gringos celebrate the fuck out of holidays that require dressing up and dealing candy like drugs. Now that I’m an adult, I bypass the whole trick or treating neighborhood deal. I do still enjoy dressing up as a dirty pirate hooker. Or a booby-licious Octoberfest chick. Or a Catrina.
Anyway, many Mexican families have adopted our tradition of dressing up the kids and dealing candy within neighborhoods. It is usually some night the week of or before Day of the Dead so that they can get their sugar fix and still be sacred on the correct date! They have it all! BOO!
Are you looking for more inspiration from México? Check out the TexMex Fun Stuff Blog for more sights, sounds and badass-ness uncovered while exploring México searching for handmade fun stuff for you!
Ernesto De La Cruz stole my heart the first time I saw his big, sexy, latino, animated self in Pixar and Disney’s movie, Coco. I was preparing to move back to México from Texas when I saw the trailer for this cinematic masterpiece about my adopted homeland.
The bright-eyed boy Miguel, his dog Dante with his tongue hanging out and the sounds of mariachi music made me look VERY forward to seeing the show with my nephew (great excuse to watch a kid’s film)!
Sweet baby Jesus!! That music and scenery gave me chills! To the point of nearly dropping everything and moving to México that very second. If the trailer was that good, I couldn’t wait to see the fucking movie. “The music is in me!”
Coco was released in the US on November 22nd, 2017…four months before I was moving back to México. I’m continually looking for inspiration to build the TexMex Fun Stuff brand and to help me refine my product offerings in the US. As luck would have it, the timing of this movie was equally as magical.
For those of you reading this who have yet to see Coco, from the bottom of my corazón…please stop reading this post and go stream it right now! THEN let me know your thoughts via comments here or on our FaceBook page!
“When life gets me down, I play my guitar. The rest of the world may follow the rules, but I have to follow my heart” – Ernesto De La Cruz
Quick breakdown: The story follows a very young aspiring musician, Miguel, who is accidentally transported to the Land of the Dead and where he must find his deceased, musical genius great-great-grandfather to help him return to his family among the Living WHILE reversing his family’s ban on music AND within a limited time to escape before he disappears! Heavy drama! Massive action! Dead people!
After living in México for 5 years previously, I felt that the movie encapsulated everything colorful, cultural and mystic about México…the customs, food, sounds, family traditions, street dogs, papel picado flags, piñatas, music and the Day of the Dead (blog post on that in October)!
Attention to the finest details throughout the movie makes me want to watch it over and over to catch gems that I missed. I mean seriously, check this cute photo of Miguel teaching himself to play the guitar by watching Ernesto De La Cruz movies! The skull head of that guitar is straight outta Day of the Dead. Chinga!
So who is Miguel’s great-great-grandfather who must save the day? None other than the dearly departed, world-renowned, muy famoso, Ernesto De La Cruz…or is it? EDLC (as I will call him) was from Miguel’s hometown and had been a very famous singer, musician and actor who starred in many “Charro” films. Sadly, EDLC was crushed to death by a giant bell at a very early age. Yes, a giant fucking bell. Miguel admires his music and emulates him in secret (ancestral ban on music-long story).
I’m still a bit behind when it comes to Mexican musicians, dead or alive, but I’m trying to get my shit together. I was wondering throughout the movie, “Is Ernesto De La Cruz based on a real Mexican icon or just a made up character from the genius minds of the Pixar people?” EDLC was larger than life (even in death) like Elvis and Frank Sinatra. Plus, he rocks the feathery smooth voice like a mariachi boss so I figured he had to be real. Right?
“For even if I’m far away, I hold you in my heart / I sing a secret song to you, each night we are apart.” – “Remember Me” -Best Original Song from Coco
Doing a Google Search for ‘Is Ernesto De La Cruz…’ comes up with the auto suggestions of: ‘Is Ernesto De La Cruz real’, ‘Is Ernesto De La Cruz based on Elvis’, ‘Is Ernesto De La Cruz a father’ and ‘Is Ernesto De La Cruz based on Vicente Fernandez.’
I thought, “Screw Google. I’m gonna research the real-life person who played the animated character, Benjamin Bratt to see who his muse was for this character!” I have always felt is super hot, so why the hell not?!
Benjamin Bratt, in all of his hotness, nailed the role of Ernesto De La Cruz
Bratt relied on his roots as a Peruvian-American to embody this macho Mexican singing icon. His mother, Eldy, was a nurse and activist (badass) from Lima, Peru and was a member of the indigenous Quechua tribe. His father, Peter Bratt Sr., was an American sheet metal worker whose father, George Cleveland Bratt, was a Broadway actor. So there’s the connection – Like grandfather, like grandson!
To prepare for the role of La Cruz, Bratt studied the “Charro” films from the ‘Golden Era of Mexican Cinema’. From these he drew from 3 different and incredibly talented Ranchera singers/actors that were handsome, suave and charismatic. Together these men gave him the template to portray Ernesto De La Cruz. Without any prior singing experience, Bratt voiced the character and sang the Oscar winning title song of the movie, “Remember Me”. #impressive #hotandtalented
I’m still trying to figure out the subtle differences between Ranchera Music and Mariachi Music, but in any case, they both involve big sombreros, booming voices and costumes that are works of art. 100% Bad Ass-ery! To prove it, see my post on Mariachis here. So when I looked up the difference between Ranchera and Mariachi music styles/genres/what have you…WikiDiff.com had this to say…
As nouns the difference between Mariachi and Ranchera is that Mariachi is a traditional form of Mexican music, either sung or purely instrumental while ranchera is a traditional Mexican song performed solo with a guitar.
Other sources say that Ranchera is one form of Mariachi. It’s a little confusing, but both were represented PLENTY during the Golden Age of Mexican Cinema from the 1930s to the 1950s. This genre of movies… “Charro“…were extremely popular. These films featured movie stars such as Tito Guízar, Jorge Negrete, José Alfredo Jiménez and Pedro Infante, who would often sing Mariachi songs to their leading ladies.
Drum roll please…so who were those 3 actors/singers that Mr. Bratt embodied? CHECK IT!!!
1. Pedro Infante, hailed as one of the greatest actors of the Golden Age of Mexican Cinema.
Pedro Infante is considered to be one of the best Ranchera Singers and idols throughout México and Latin America. His full name was Pedro Infante CRUZ. #NotSoSubtle
What I like about him is that he was always surrounded by mariachis in his movies and was constantly singing, drunk and on the verge of breaking down and crying. Like me on any given day of the week. I make a fraction less noise, but I certainly draw the same size crowds. #AttentionSeekingBehavior
Ole Pedro recorded over 350 songs and starred in over 60 films, 30 of which with his brother, Ángel Infante. His most critically acclaimed movie, “Tizoc” won a Golden Globe for Best Foreign Film in 1958. The Golden Globe can be seen at the Pedro Infante museum on a tiny island called Isla Arena in Campeche, México. #BeenThere
Pedro also had a fascination with aviation and had converted a Bomber war plane into a cargo plane in San Diego. He was learning to be a pilot and was co-piloting this plane when the engine failed shortly after takeoff in my adopted hometown of Mérida, Yucatan. The plane was headed to México City, but crashed 5 minutes after taking off and he died at the age of 39 – April 15th, 1957. Sad day in México.
BUT some people think his death was faked since his body was “burned beyond all recognition” in the crash. Authorities were never able to positively identify his remains and adding to this mystery, a man was spotted in Veracruz in the 1980’s that went by the name Antonio Pedro who closely resembled Infante. Fans wanted to believe conspiracy theories that Infante was still alive, however a bracelet of Pedro’s was found near the crash sight which more or less settled that. #Asgoodasdead
2. Jorge Negrete, Opera Singer, Actor and Military Veteran
Jorge Negrete was born in one of my favorite cities in México and which many scenes in Coco strongly resemble…Guanajuato City, Guanajuato. The papel picado draped above the winding streets and colorful callejones in the make believe cities of Santa Cecilia and Land of the Dead is a beautiful intersection of animated nostalgia and this real-life city full of Mexican pageantry. #Guanajuato
Negrete was a brilliant, but rebellious teenager which caused his father to enroll him in El Colegio Militar, a military academy, where (of all freaking things) he fell in love with music. Negrete graduated from the academy with a developed gallant presence that served him well as a leading man in films and a booming star on stage.
As fabulous as he was militarily speaking, he LOVED singing and had an astounding voice. So when he met José Pierson, a prestigious singing professor, he started seriously studying music. Pierson became fascinated with Negrete’s voice and got him on the radio. He also helped Negrete develop his talent for Opera which led him to become well known in the United States. He went on to star in over 40 films from 1937 to 1953 and helped found the Mexican Actors Association.
Randomly, Negrete died at CEDARS-SINAÍ Hospital in 1953 at the age of 42 while on a business trip in LA, CA from complications of cirrhosis. There was a faux public rivalry between Negrete and Infante since their careers paralleled, but privately they were close friends right up to Negrete’s death. Some historians say that Negrete’s death actually helped Infante’s career since he was no longer in Negrete’s shadow. Both men died very young and in their prime…kinda like EDLC!
MOVIE SPOILER ALERT***Both Infante and Negrete make brief dead cameos in Coco when Ernesto De La Cruz comes up to talk with them at his party in the Land of the Dead.***
3. Vicente Fernández, the King of Ranchera Music
Vicente Fernández, nicknamed “El Rey de la Música Ranchera” (The King of Ranchera Music) is a retired actor, singer and movie producer. He grew up in Guadalajara, Jalisco and was inspired to be a singer while watching Pedro Infante movies as a young boy. #parallels
“When I was 6 or 7, I would go see Pedro Infante’s movies, and I would tell my mother, ‘When I grow up, I’ll be like him.'” – Vicente Fernández
He went on to record over 50 albums and would always perform wearing a traditional Mexican charro suit, which of course included a massive felt sombrero. He also contributed to over 30 films between 1965 and 2016. He retired from performing live in 2016, but definitely went out in style. #Notdeadjustretired
To a sold out crowd at Mexico City’s Azteca Stadium in April, 2016 he stopped his concert to address the then-US presidential candidate…
“There’s a U.S. presidential candidate that’s saying a lot of ugly things about Mexicans. The day I come across him, I’m going to spit in his face! I’m going to tell him to go fuck himself. I’m going to tell him everything no one has ever told him in his damn life.” – Vicente Fernández
BOOM. Not sure if they have had a face-off yet, but there’s time.
Vicente’s 51 year career has earned him 3 Grammy Awards, 8 Latin Grammy Awards, a star on the Hollywood Walk of Fame and he has sold over 50 million records worldwide. That makes him one of the top-selling Mexican artists of all time. Google is backing us up here…
Felicidaes y gracias to Benjamin Bratt for channeling the heart and soul of Mexican music into Ernesto De La Cruz! It is clear in his performance that he used the musical and personality stylings of these 3 icons and in the process created another real Mexican icon…EDLC! VIVA MÉXICO!!!
Coco to date has grossed over $807 million making it the 15th highest grossing animated film ever made and was the first feature film with an all Latino cast. It was originally titled Day of the Dead, but was changed to Coco, which is the name of Miguel’s grandmother in the movie. The film won two Academy Awards for Best Animated Feature and one for…you guessed it…Best Original Song, “Remember Me”.
Are you looking for more inspiration from México? Check out the TexMex Fun Stuff Blog for more sights, sounds and badass-ness uncovered while exploring México searching for handmade fun stuff for you!
Every single Saturday evening in any given town in México you will see a limousine full of teenagers dressed to the nines hanging out of the sunroof screaming and singing and waving at onlookers. Seriously, they look too young to be going to Prom and Prom is only a May/June thing anyway, so what’s the deal?
Welp, that there is a little tradition we like to call “Fiesta de Quince Años”. It means “Party for the 15 year old” in Spanish and just kidding…there is NOTHING little about it. A lot of teens celebrate ‘Sweet 16!’ in the United States. This is sorta like that, just a year younger and WAAAAAYYYY more over the top! BTW, it is pronounced ‘keen-sey-ah-nyair–uh‘.
When I turned 15, my parents winced about putting on a taco and ice cream party for 20 people, never mind a whole Cinderella fantasy! For reals, these things take a full year to plan…like a wedding. Basically when a little girl turns 14 it’s time to get the party planning going full steam ahead. Allow me to share what I was doing in my 14th year of life. It looked something ridiculous like this…
Total Breakdown of this Event
Quinceanera-boutique.com is a one stop shop for all things regarding this tradition. Here’s their take on this teenage Latina/o phenomenon…
“In the Mexican, Puerto Rican, Cuban, Central and South American traditions, the custom can be referred to as a Quince (XV) Años, a quinces, a Quinceañera, a Quinceañero or a Fiesta Rosa. The Quinceañera celebration traditionally begins with a religious ceremony. A reception is held in the home or a banquet hall. The festivities include food and music, and in most, a choreographed waltz or dance performed by the Quinceañera and her Court.”
***Allow me to interject before continuing with this big explanation. The word ‘Quinceañera’ is the word for both the celebration AND the 15 year old girl. Now, when a family celebrates a boy coming of age they call the event AND the 15 year old boy ‘Quinceañero’. *** Back to quinceanera-boutique.com‘s kick ass quote…
“It is traditional for the Quinceañera to choose special friends to participate in what is called the Court of Honor. Usually, these young people are her closest friends, her brothers, sisters, cousins – the special people in her life with whom she wants to share the spotlight. The Quinceañera’s Court of Honor can be comprised of all young girls (called Damas), all young men (called Chambelanes or Escortes) or a combination of both boys and girls.”
The Quinceañera traditionally wears a ball gown, with her Court dressed in gowns and tuxedos. Guests usually receive small tokens (cápias) to commemorate the celebration.”
This is Cinderella stuff!! The closest thing I ever got to at that age was going to Prom…twice. AND I had to wear the same $100 dress both years! PROOF:
But enough about my teenage angst. There are so many rituals in a typical Quinceañera that I can’t even list a majority of them. Let’s not even get into the First Doll, the Last Doll, the Changing of the Shoes, the Kneeling Pillow or any of that jazz.
Suffice to say, there is a lot of pomp and circumstance that occurs during one of these ceremonies/parties. I’m writing about it because I’m all about grand fiestas and Quinceañeras are the fiestas that Latin American parents throw the most money at!
Seriously, more pesos are spent on Quinceañeras than on the girls’ actual weddings! Probably more than MY wedding! Follow the money…
There is BIG Money in Quinceañeras
Ain’t no joke. Quinceanera.com has a list of the Top 10 things a Quince’s parents will spend a small fortune on. Luckily, Godparents or ‘Padrinos’ are expected to shell out some cash or sponsor certain expenses. With the exception of an open bar (which has strangely been left off this list), anyone who has had a traditional wedding may find these expenses VERY familiar:
Venue for the Mass – donations to the church more or less required
Save the Dates / Invitations – obviously depending on the guest list which could be anywhere from 50-1,000 peeps
Catering Services / Reception Space
The Dress, bouquet and accessories – tiaras are essential!
Photography / Videography / Photo Booth – all things capturing the evidence!
DJ or Maricachi Band or Live Band
Decor / Flowers / Party Planning Services – 3 way tie
The Cake!
Hair and Makeup
Guest gifts / Party Favors
Clearly the Reception is More Important than Ceremony
I feel that ‘party’ is more important than ‘prayer’ because I’m a heathen. That said, How Stuff Works totally agrees with me and lays out the play by play of these events really well…
“Although its emphasis is more on the party than the prayer, the Quinceañera starts at the local Catholic church. Before any birthday cake is cut, the quince girl attends a special Mass in which she reaffirms her dedication to God and receives a blessing from the priest. Afterward, the Sweet 15 reception gets underway, typically involving some combination of choreographed dance sequences***yes you read that right***, limousine arrivals, sumptuous spreads of food and desserts and an official presentation of the quince girl to fiesta attendees. Similar to cotillion and debutante traditions, Quinceañeras serve as young Hispanics’ official entrance into society and womanhood and incorporate a host of unique elements and rituals that celebrate girls’ birthdays, as well as their heritage.”
Cotillions and debutantes?! I’d say! The only difference between those traditions and Quinceañeras is that EVERYONE in México and Latin America has a Quinceañera/o these days, it’s not just for the uppity-ups.
You know how much I love Wikipedia...They have a little diddy about debutantes that might ring a few bells:
“A debutante or deb (from French: débutante, “female beginner”) is a young woman of aristocratic or upper-class family background who has reached maturity and, as a new adult, comes out into society at a formal “debut” or possibly debutante ball. Originally, the term meant the woman was old enough to be married, and part of the purpose of her coming out was to display her to eligible bachelors and their families with a view to marriage within a select circle.”
Very similar traditions, indeed. At the bottom of all that money and hardcore party planning is showing the world that now this 15 year old is ready to date/marry/get out of her parents’ house. Back in the day, this was much more of a display to bachelors that a young girl’s family was ready to marry her off. Nowadays it’s really a tradition for fun, family and friends…but as a semi-feminist I still get riled up at the concept.
I mean really, when I was 15, I was just put back into braces. Again. Believe me, my Dad was sooooo ready to get rid of me after round 2 of braces…Can you imagine getting married at 15 with braces?…Ayayay. This blog post is bringing up a lot of weird shit for me! Sorry.
Now I’m 46 and I have a child of my own who turns 15 on July 5!
I can’t believe my boy is all grown up! Dog Quinceañeros are not typical. Then again, we are not typical.
We are not celebrating Deuce’s transition into manhood. It’s more like we’re celebrating that he has not transitioned into death. That’s worth a few pints, cocktails and cake! There will be no tiaras, scepters or bibles on hand and we will certainly NOT have a choreographed dance!
We do have both Godparents present, so that’s pretty good tradition-wise. We will get rip roaring drunk and eat an expensive half dog cake/half human cake. There will be papel picado flags and a piñata hanging from the rafters of a British pub in downtown Queretaro. English bulldogs should be celebrated in British pubs in México after all. So there.
****IMPORTANT UPDATE! Deuce’s Quinceañero was a grand success…except for the cake…***
In conclusion, Quinceañeras are a huge part of Latin American culture. A culture that prioritizes parties every chance they get. Go big or go home at any age! Especially at 15 and in a limo! Peace and paz.
Are you looking for more inspiration from México? Check out the TexMex Fun Stuff Blog for more sights, sounds and badass-ness uncovered while exploring México searching for handmade fun stuff for you!
I’ll be honest. I freaking loved Speedy Gonzales as a kid with that “Arriba, Arriba, Andale, Andale” shit! Little mouse with a big ass hat that he never lost even when he was zooming around at 100 km/hr. He was my first introduction to rodents, Mexican culture, Spanish slogans, hot nasty badass speed and of course, Sombreros.
Speedy was a cutie and all, but the history of Sombreros in México goes back over 500 years and is steeped in tradition, functionality and rebellion. Sombreros are those wide brimmed hats made of straw, felt or velvet that are now an icon of Mexican culture. For reals, you show up at any party, wedding or funeral wearing a Sombrero and you’ve just turned it into a full-blown fiesta.
The word Sombrero is derived from the Spanish word for shade which is ‘sombra’. The direct translation for El Sombrero then is…’The Shadower’. See there?!
There are three different countries/people claiming to have invented this sun-defying Mexican symbol of bad-assery. The only consistency between these 3 possible backstories is that the Sombrero was made for one specific function: to shade the person wearing it from the intense heat of the sun.
Mongolians, Spaniards and Mestizo Cowboys all claim to have invented the Mexican Sombrero.
CLAIM #1 – LAMENESS ALERT – The first people to declare that they invented the Sombrero were the Mongolians back in the 1200’s. Most Mongolians were horse riders…shepherds or nomads or both. So OK, I get that they needed wide brimmed hats prior to the invention of Coppertone, but let’s take a look at what they are claiming.
Back in the day the Mongolians had some crazy ass hats. Some were wide brimmed and most were completely out of hand pointy, but I’m going to go ahead and strike their claim from the record. Seriously take a look at these examples…they’re not even close to the Sombrero fantastic-ness we all love today!
CLAIM #2 – The Spaniards (as per usual) are much more likely “founders” of the Sombrero. Allegedly in 1400’s Spain, elite men wore Sombreros made of plush felt while the peasants’ Sombreros were made of straw. When the Spanish invaded Mexico in the 1600’s, they brought along their wide-ish brimmed hats. You are going to hear from HistoryofHats.com right now because they know what they’re talking about…
“Even as far as 17th century, people from Spain used to wear hats called ‘Sombrero cordobés‘ (translated as ‘wide-brimmed hat’), a traditional hat from the Spanish territories of Córdoba and Andalusia. This hat is defined by the flat crown that is between 10-12cm high, and a relatively short and perfectly flat brim that can be 8-12 cm wide. It is believed that the Mexican Sombrero was created after Spanish immigrants brought Sombrero cordobés to the New World.” – HistoryofHats.com
Here is a pic of a Spanish 1800’s-ish model with a “Cordovan” (sombrero codobés) and Madonna in 1980-ish with a Cordovan on her ‘La Isla Bonita’ album cover…
CLAIM #3 – REALITY ALERT – Mestizo (People of European and Mexican Indigenous mixed decent) farmers and ranch hands from central México came up with Sombreros. The hats they wore were made out of straw and were wide enough for everyone in the fields to protect their head AND shoulders from the sun. That’s how big they were. These hats also had upturned rims that would deflect water while trotting around the mesa, herding cattle or whatevs. HistoryofHats.com has this explanation…
“Sombrero hats were created out of necessity in the early history of the Mexican culture. Faced with the strong sun during an entire year, both native residents of Central America and European immigrants who started settling it during the 17th century and later, quickly strived to find easy ways to provide protection against sun and elements in the territories that were then considered as very desolate, harsh and hard to work in. One of the most popular solutions for protection of the sun were hats imported from Europe, but they were viewed as insufficient against strong Mexican sun, especially for workers who had to stay outside during an entire day. Mexican natives and immigrants soon started building hats with wider and wider brims, and those hats quickly became an iconic clothing accessory for the whole nation.” – HistoryofHats.com
Now For the Rebellion Part
Straw sombreros with a wide upturned brim and a pointed top were made famous by Emiliano Zapata in the late 1800’s. Viva México! Zapata was a prominent leader in the peasant revolt of the Mexican Revolution. Prior to the revolt he was a farmer, a rodeo bad ass and an agricultural entrepreneur from the state of Morelos. To say the least, he knew a thing or two about headwear for long days in the sun. His preference for the super wide, straw, pointy-topped style charro hat led everyone in México to just start calling that style ‘The Zapata’.
From Wikipedia: “General Zapata’s dress until his death was a charro outfit: tight-fitting black cashmere pants with silver buttons, a broad charro hat, a fine linen shirt or jacket, a scarf around his neck, boots of a single piece, Amozoqueña-style spurs, and a pistol at his belt.”
Charros?
We just mentioned ‘charro’ three times. What the hell are ‘charro’ hats and outfits, you ask? Charros are cowboys. Simple. Charro hats and outfits are just the style of cowboy/ranch hand headwear and clothing. Charro beans are cowboy style beans…but that’s another story.
So whether the Spanish brought the Sombrero to México or today’s version really began with central Mexican farm folk, Sombreros have been kicked up several notches in creativity, function and style thanks to the Mariachis and Charros of Guadalajara. Together they are credited with enlarging and bedazzling the shit out of this already big hat and making it a true symbol of Mexico.
Charros / Mariachis know how to ROCK the Sombrero.
The Charros of Guadalajara were the first to create the hat that pretty much everyone envisions when they think of Mexican Sombreros. They were the horsemen relying on the Sombrero to protect them from the sun while adding a little bad-assery to their wardrobe. However, the Mariachis of Guadalajara are ultimately responsible for going really over the top with this awesome headpiece. We’re talking elaborate, colorful, decorated shit, here. Rhinestone cowboy stuff.
The outfits that Mariachis wear today are actually called Charro Suits and any self-respecting Mariachi never leaves home without his/her Sombrero. To keep them from blowing off in the wind or while they are rocking out, they tighten up the ‘borboquejo’, which is Spanish for chin strap.
You can find Charro and Zapata style Sombreros for sale in most mercados (markets) throughout México. The picture above is me causing trouble in the Mercado Municipal Rio Cuale in Puerto Vallarta. I bought this fancy pink Charro Sombrero for about $20 USD. I think they just wanted me to leave. Wait, no…they definitely wanted me to leave.
This video is in English and it’s awesome so watch it, yo. That way we don’t have to type everything they say 😉
Sombreros are still crafted by hand today, but there are subtle differences in their design that showcase the level of artistry and inevitably impact the price. My $20 USD pink bejeweled beauty was made by the Pigalle Sombrero Company and combines pre-cut patterns that are glued onto the brim with hand sewn threading that weaves the patterns across the top and bottom. Sombreros are commonly emblazoned with beads, sequins, thread, sparkles and other flashy decorative elements.
I’ve been traveling through México for years and have found that most types of arts/crafts are known for coming from certain towns. Examples are Taxco for sterling silver, San Salvador Huixcolotla for papel picado, León for leather and Tultepec for fireworks. Sombrero artists/manufacturers aren’t located in a specific city, but more of a region throughout the states of Jalisco (hence the Guadalajara connection) and Guanajuato.
The story behind the Mexican Hat Dance will make you fall in love.
The Mexican Hat Dance (Jarape Tapatío) is the story of a young man trying to gain the attention of a beautiful girl. In an act of pride and commitment, he throws the most valuable thing he owns to the ground as a symbol of his love to her. In front of her feet laid his Sombrero.
She is so overcome by his romantic gesture that the two engage in a dance of courtship around the Sombrero. The Jarape Tapatió evolved into a Mexican folk dance which is now known as the National Dance of México. To keep with the tradition of the young couple, the dancers do not touch while dancing, allowing the Sombrero on the ground between the two…to keep them at a good safe/virginal distance.
As the song and dance conclude, the woman picks up the Sombrero and the couple disappears behind it for a few moments leaving the crowd to wonder how much tongue is going on behind the two foot wide kissing booth.
And by the way, Tapatió is the word used for a native of Guadalajara…so we have to presume that this couple and resulting tradition is originally from Guadalajara, Jalisco. That and tequila…Ayayayay!
Now that you have decided that you need one for yourself or a bad ass dog, here’s some ballpark pricing…Deuce is currently showing off a colorful, child-size velvet bedazzled wonder that we bought for around $12 USD at the PV mercado. Now all we have to do is convince him that wearing it is a good idea! Arriba, Arriba, Deuce!!! Andale, Andale!!!
Are you looking for more inspiration from México? Check out the TexMex Fun Stuff Blog for more sights, sounds and badass-ness uncovered while exploring México searching for handmade fun stuff for you!
I had seen those Mexican Bingo images everywhere. The Drunk, The Mermaid, The Crown, The Heart, etc. Cute and silly and there are a helluva lot of them. Except for all the names being in Spanish, I never really noticed that they are particularly Mexican (even though I had seen them all over Mexico). Mostly on paintings, cards, t-shirts, mugs, matchboxes, whatnot, what have you.
THEN I opened a store in Merida, Yucatan, Mexico with another gringa loca (crazy white girl) who was way more in the know than me. Her name is Julie and she was unfortunately in charge of teaching me a lot of shit about Mexican culture before our first buying trip in Guadalajara pre-grand opening. She told me we were gonna “Get our La Loteria on!” in a big way.
La What? La Profitable!
The Hardcore Backstory of La Lotería
Gambling is fun, let’s face it. Even Bingo is a good time…and I’m relatively young! Cards kill time and build friendships in ways other games can’t. Uppity folks in Italy and Spain knew this and played regularly as early as the 1400’s. It made sense for Hernan Cortés and his troops to bring a few decks of cards with them to play during the Spanish Conquest of México while plundering the natives of “New Spain”. Basically, when the Spaniards took time out from stealing land and enslaving Mexicans, they would kick back and enjoy a few games for laughs, money, pride or whatever.
I guess one good thing the Spanish conquerors did was introduce a taste for cards into México. Cortés himself was a great card player as it turns out. This introduction led to 2 very distinct, yet equally important games:
The Difference Between La Loteria and The Lottery
After all the battles of the War of Independence were over, lotteries and raffles were set up all over Central and South America. Lima, Peru was the first New World place to have an official lottery. It was introduced after an earthquake destroyed a local hospital and the archbishops there decided to institute a citywide lottery to rebuild the hospital with the profits.
Mexico needed profits to rebuild its post-war everything. BIG TIME. So in 1771, it became the second country to establish a legal lottery with the first big jackpot of $84,000 pesos.
“This vice, or time-honored habit – intelligently channeled towards good, so that it might benefit the poor and deprived, relieving them in their distress – is what gave rise to the lottery. Good engendered by evil: this was the idea proposed by the kindly King Charles III, who founded the lottery in his dominions of New Spain.”
—Artemio de Valle Arizpe in ‘A Brief History of the Mexican Lottery’ in “The Art of Fortune” by Artes de México.
And when we say ‘good engendered by evil’ we are talking about how all of the Catholic muckety mucks declared gambling as evil…even if it was ultimately for good. By 1782, after 11 years of successful fundraising (and some exploitation to line King Charles III’s royal pockets), México’s jackpot would commonly get to BIG MONEY. The PowerBall (if you will) would get to $715,000 pesos, which was a shit ton in 1782!
Since this was clearly a lucrative business, some clergymen and nuns got in the game…creating mini-raffles similar to La Loteria cards, but naming the cards after saints and relics. Douchey.
Long story short…México still to this day has its own National Lottery called Lotería Nacional with scratch-offs, PowerBalls and the whole shebang. This is NOT to be confused with the fun board game that is referred to as La Lotería. Yes, both types stemmed from the games of the Spanish soldiers, Cortés and King Charlie. However, La Lotería has much more cultural significance which is steeped in 200 years of history. The images of which have become iconic. No scratch offs, just loads of history.
Traditional La Lotería from 1887
So after 100-ish years of playing versions of La Lotería, a commercial board game version was created in 1887 by French entrepreneur, Clemente Jacques. He aptly called his widely sold game, “Don Clemente Gallo”. For those who have ever shopped in a Mexican grocery store or ‘super’, you have seen that name and that gallo (rooster) image before.
It was Clemente Jacques who came to Mexico to import games, seeds and canned foods and ended up establishing the first food processing and canning factory in México. This same dude made and marketed a timeless family-friendly game while feeding Latin America. Strange connection, but the company is one and the same.
Anyway, Señor Clemente Jacques mass produced a formal game of La Lotería. His version has a total of 54 images that each include a picture, a name and a number. Each one depicts a unique characteristic of México…food, Catholic beliefs, Aztec beliefs, booze and Mother Earth essentials. Frankly, Teresa Villegas says it better…
“Every culture has its idioms and icons -certain words and images that transcend the literal and reside in the psyches of the people. This artwork has drawn upon Mexican traditions, historical figures, gastronomy, and popular culture, translating them into images familiar and recognizable to those who have experienced this distinctive culture. ” And Teresa drops the mic…BOOM.
How to Play
Each player is given a La Lotería board that has 16 images and a hand full of beans, bottle caps, rocks or whatever is lying around. Then a caller gets ready to rumble…He or she draws a card like a bingo caller fetches a ball out of that whirling dervish of a metal cage.
The caller is the crucial part of the game and plays the Emcee, the ‘Fair and Balanced’ Entertainer and the Riddler. The unique aspect of calling out the randomly chosen images, numbers or names is that they don’t actually call them out at all. WHAAATT?? The caller uses riddles, puns or jokes to note which image/number/name is being called. Depending on the audience, he or she can be quite tame or risqué AF.
Remember, this game has been played in churches, schools, dirty cantinas and table dance joints all over México for over 200 years. #dontjudge
Sound confusing? I agree, but it’s actually genius and if it is used in grade schools to teach kids objects and words, it’s gotta be good! I personally think it’s pretty hilarious that one of the images is ‘El Borracho’ which is ‘The Drunk’ in English. Little kids in grade school are learning that shit pretty early in life! Foreshadowing? Si. 🙂
The riddles that are called out range from obvious to downright clever. Here are my Top 10 Tame Faves:
El Diablito – The Devil – Behave yourself so that the little red one doesn’t carry you off.
2. La Calavera – The Skull – As I passed through the graveyard, I found a skull.
3. La Muerte – Death – She walks through the bones, waiting to catch you and take you to heaven.
4. La Sirena – The Mermaid – The love of every sailor, sings with the sea, and entangles you with her hair.
5. El Nopal – The Cactus – To which all go to see when they have to eat.
6. El Corazon – The Heart – It beats, tomato in color, falls in love the very lover.
7. La Corona – The Crown – The hat of kings.
8. El Barril – The Barrel – The bricklayer drank so much that he ended up like a barrel.
9. La Botella – The Bottle – As a microphone for the drunk and as a remedy for the sick.
10. El Borracho – The Drunk – Playing goes with his body, which he cannot control and falls to the ground.
When a pun is called that matches one of the images on your board, you put a bean or a bottle cap on the square. Once you have 4 squares across or 4 squares down or just 4 squares in the shape of a square, you win and you scream out LA LOTERÍA! And the crowd goes wild.
Millennial La Lotería from 2019
Fast forward to 2019 and you have a new way to play! You millennials are cray cray and are always coming up with fun and fanciful shit. This is an example that I LOVE! Did you notice the ‘La Selfie’ image at the top of this post? Creator, developer and my new 20-something hero, Gerardo Guillén has created the Millennial version of La Lotería! And in typical millennial fashion, you can follow the company on Instagram at @millennialloteria. #followustoo @TexMexFunStuff
No more El Diablo, El Corazon or La Corona…now we have La Selfie, El Tinder and La Dick Pick!
It comes with 46 cards, 10 boards and 80 bitcoin tokens. Bitcoin tokens? I can’t even! I bought 10 sets. Buy yours on Amazon here. If you want one or 10 of the classic sets you can get those here…
So I hope that clears a few things up for you…
Finally, I mentioned that my friend Julie educated me on all of this shit and she deserves some serious street cred for that. Her store (formerly our store) is called El Estudio! and it is located on the main drag in Merida, Yucatan, MX. When in the hood, stop by and see her and get some cool Lotería merch! You’ll recognize the store by the logo below…which is basically she and I as Catrinas – another blog post!! Peace out and thanks for reading!
Are you looking for more inspiration from México? Check out the TexMex Fun Stuff Blog for more sights, sounds and badass-ness uncovered while exploring México searching for handmade fun stuff for you!
Cinco de Mayo has always been an excellent excuse to get together with my friends in the Texas springtime to eat Mexican food and drink margaritas. For years I thought that Cinco de Mayo was a celebration of México’s Independence Day. HA! Try September 16th! I was way off. Evidently loads of Americans make that mistake, too.
A few months ago, my journey through México landed me right smack dab in the birth canal of Cinco de Mayo …Heroica Puebla de Zaragoza in Puebla, México. If you haven’t been to the city of ‘Puebla’ in the state of Puebla and you hate churches, don’t go to Puebla! There is literally a church on every corner. Seriously, everywhere you turn there is a freaking church. ***Preacher’s Kid Alert***
Other than the clamor of constant bell-ringing between all the churches every 10 seconds, Puebla is a beautiful city which is super clean, full of great people and amazing ceramics and food. It is also where the Battle of Puebla took place on May 5th, 1862.
You may have already put two and two together that May 5th and Cinco de Mayo are one and the same. The celebration that we Americans love actually commemorates México’s victory over the French invasion during this famous battle in Puebla in 1862. I wanted to learn more about this Mexican situation/holiday that I’d been celebrating with margs and beer in the US since college!
While asking the locals where exactly the enormous Cinco de Mayo fiesta was going down, I was met with strange looks and shameful head shaking. I was genuinely startled to discover that Cinco de Mayo isn’t celebrated in México at all (outside of downtown Puebla, which is where battle reenactments still take place!).
ABSOLUTE ASTONISHMENT! Was this another made up holiday?! Like when Hallmark invented Valentine’s Day or Santa invented Christmas?! Just kidding-ish.
It occurred to me that my “research” was going to require a lot more than fajitas and a sturdy liver. I had to do actual historical homework. Damnit! So with a red solo cup full of margarita on the rocks in hand, I headed to the exact site of where the Battle of Puebla took place on May 5th, 1862.
I jumped in a taxi and in my best/worst Spanish said, “Take me to where the Cinco de Mayo Margarita Fiesta was invented – at once!” My completely unimpressed taxi driver drove me to the Northeast section of town…down cobblestone streets (past a few hundred churches), up the Heroes of Cinco de Mayo Boulevard and dropped me at the top of one of the tallest hills in the city.
There is this whole amazing city park up there that gives you a 360 degree view of Puebla! The ‘Centro Civico Cinco de Mayo‘ park includes two old forts (Los Fuertes), a gondola/funicular ride thing and lots of grass, fountains and multiple museums. I was particularly interested in the lovely gold plated museum!
Was this really where the Battle of Puebla took place over 150 years ago? As luck would have it, the gold plated museum is called the Museum of the Battle of Cinco de Mayo. BINGO! I knew someone inside would help me understand the significance of this Battle/American/Mexican/Poblano holiday. Sure enough, the entrance to the museum was FREE that day (as most museums in México are) and a delightfully bilingual guide was assigned to assist me in my historical journey for a very small propina (tip)!
What is the Battle of Cinco de Mayo and Why Should We Give a Shit?
So my super informative guide tells me that “La Batalla del Cinco de Mayo” is also known as the “Battle of Puebla” and it lasted only 1 day! 6-8 hours to be exact – depending on who you ask. Here’s the backstory: In the mid-1800’s, Mexican civil wars, the US Civil War, general political chaos and fending off foreign powers (Remember the Alamo?) had more or less bankrupted México.
On July 17, 1861, President Benito Juaréz declared a suspension on all debt payments to foreign countries for 2 years to get the budget back on track. Specifically holding off payments to France, Britain and Spain. Well that pissed them off and the 3 countries immediately sent troops to the shores of Veracruz (located on the Gulf of México) demanding payment.
Britain and Spain successfully negotiated with the Mexican government and withdrew their forces, but those pesky French didn’t. French intentions clearly had little to do with a default on a loan. There are two schools of thought as to why:
1. Napoleon III (nephew of THE Napolean) wanted to topple the Juárez government to access Mexico’s resources and, in particular, to take advantage of the instability in the United States, then embroiled in its own civil war and unable to stop a French advance. Ooooooorrrrrrr….
2. The French were in bed with the American Confederacy and together, they figured that if France could take over México, the French and Confederates could have a whole slave-owning empire from the Mason Dixon line all the way down to Guatemala. So Napolean III used this debt deferment as an excuse to invade and overtake México to make all of his slave-owning dreams come true.
Either way, Napolean III directed 6,000-7,000 troops to march from Veracruz to Puebla to take over the city. The grand plan was to then head into the capital…the big beast…México City, for the ultimate takeover.
In response to this absolute shit ton of troops headed to “Puebla de Los Angeles” (as it was called then), President Juaréz rounded up just 2,000 troops to defend it and most of them were just untrained locals. Hey, they were bankrupt after all.
The very well dressed and organized French army began their assault on the two forts in Puebla. The Fort of Guadalupe and the Fort of Loreto (as I mentioned earlier) sit on top of the tallest neighboring hills in town. The 2,000 Mexican troops were split between these two forts with some hiding in churches throughout the city of Puebla.
The odds didn’t look so fabulous for México, but there were 4 things that Napolean III didn’t take into consideration: Tunnels, churches, deception and rain.
Here is where tunnels, churches, deception and rain come into play: Fort de Lareto and most of the churches in Centro were all connected by underground tunnels that the French troops were unaware of. In fact, these tunnels in total are 6 miles long (and had been forgotten about, but then just recently re-discovered in 2014). They are tall enough and wide enough to ride horses on through the whole system. PERFECT!
Back then, nuns, priests and soldiers used these tunnels to get around the city quickly without a whole lotta hubbub or the hot Mexican sun. The Mexican soldiers were easily able to run through these tunnels to and from Fort de Lareto with supplies and reinforcements from multiple churches.
The French were focusing on Fort de Guadalupe, so the Mexican soldiers defended it by adding a steady stream of troops and supplies from the tunnels under Fort Lareto to attack from the outside. The French forces assumed that they were battling waaaaaay more soldiers than just 2,000. They were surprised and intimidated. The Mexican army was playing the perfect game of deception, literally underground.
The last important influence on the outcome of the battle was rain. May is the beginning of rainy season. Anyone who has spent time in México during rainy season knows when the rain begins every day…the afternoon.
The French made 3 surges throughout the day, but didn’t start the first one until late morning. #LAZY #BigMistake. The second and third attempts to take over the Fort of Guadalupe happened in the afternoon.
By the time the French made their 2nd attack on the Fort de Guadalupe, the pouring rain made the climb to the top impossible, let alone to be able to conquer the damn thing. Luck was a lady for México and after the 3rd unsuccessful and soaking wet attempt on the fort, the French forces accepted defeat and retreated back to Veracruz.
The Mexican forces were victorious in less than 6-8 hours under General Ignacio Zaragoza. BTW, Zaragoza was born in Texas when it was owned by Mexico – that makes him TexMex! He and his troops had successfully defended the Fort of Guadalupe and ultimately the country of México against 6,000-7,000 French troops. So the Prez renamed Puebla “Heroica Puebla de Zaragoza” (Heroic People of Zaragoza).
So, Why is Cinco de Mayo so Popular in the United States?
In the US of A, Cinco de Mayo has turned into a major American tradition and a minor holiday for Mexican-Americans to celebrate their heritage. Massive parades and fiestas commemorate the Little Mexican Army that Could that fateful May 5th in 1862. The fiestas always include a boatload of Mexican food, badass mariachi music, papel picado decorations galore, and of course, boozy treats.
In an in-depth book by David Hayes-Bautista titled ‘El Cinco de Mayo, An American Tradition’, he explains that the holiday in the United States isn’t Mexican at all. It was created by Mexicans living in California after the word spread up to the north of the victory in Puebla, but it has evolved over the years.
“Cinco de Mayo has shifted over time—it embodied immigrant nostalgia in the 1930s, U.S. patriotism during World War II, Chicano Power in the 1960s and 1970s, and commercial intentions in the 1980s and 1990s. Today, it continues to reflect the aspirations of a community that is engaged, empowered, and expanding.” – David Hayes-Bautista
I can speak from experience after working for a beer/wine/liquor distributor in Dallas that today in the United States – bars, restaurants and beer/wine/liquor companies continue to spread the “nostalgia” of Cinco de Mayo. Por que? Because any excuse to celebrate a victory means money! And Corona and it’s parent company, Grupo Modelo are all over that!
Here is a bit of boozy history: In 2012 the Anheuser-Busch and InBev clan bought Grupo Modelo, making it a powerhouse booze conglomerate. The US Department of Justice sued the corporation for anti-trust reasons citing more or less that they were creating a beer monopoly. The AB/InBev/Modelo guys had to sell off the Mexican beer ‘USA marketing and imports rights’ to Constellation Brands (who are marketing monsters) to fend off the feds.
You wanna know why America loves Cinco de Mayo? Because Constellation Brands decided to make a shit ton of money every spring. Seriously, they’re worse than Hallmark! Truth be told, as Hayes-Bautista mentioned, the “nostalgia” had commercial intentions leading back as far as the 80’s so I guess I can’t blame Constellation Brands entirely. Just a lil’ bit.
OK, soap box moment over. I finished the tour of the museum and headed to the forts to see if they had a bar in one or both of them. They did not. #LucilleBluthEyeRoll. The sun was setting over the always-smoking volcano, Popocatépetl and the city lights were coming on in the city below.
I called an Uber and headed down the Heroes of Cinco de Mayo Boulevard with a way greater appreciation for this town and the brave people (puebla) of Mexico. Now if they can turn a few of these churches into cantinas, I’d be a happy girl!
National Geographic said it well…”For Mexicans in Puebla, as well as Mexican-Americans in the United States, Cinco de Mayo has become a complex symbol of Mexican culture, resilience and character.”
So Cheers and Salúd to Puebla, México; to Cinco de Mayo and to the unyielding Mexican soldiers of the Battle of Puebla. Also, gracias and thanks to the Garcia family who showed us around their gorgeous city and set us straight about Cinco de Mayo! Ustedes son fabulosos!!
Are you looking for more inspiration from México? Check out the TexMex Fun Stuff Blog for more sights, sounds and badass-ness uncovered while exploring México searching for handmade fun stuff for you!
The Dance of the Flyers (Danza de los Voladores) is NOT MayPoling (or A-Holing, like I first thought). Okay, it’s obviously not A-Holing, but it rhymes with MayPoling and that’s funny. We’ll get to MayPoling in a moment, but first indulge me as I stumble down Amnesia Lane…The first time I can remember seeing the Dance of the Flyers was in the small border town of Reynosa, Tamaulipas, Mexico over 20 years ago.
Reynosa is just across the border from McAllen, Texas and it used to be my old stomping grounds. Me and my gal pals would get our Mexican culture on by singing in cantinas for free beer and/or shots. The town was debaucherous, yet safe and fun for this little 18-20-something to wander around in search of a good time. Plus it was a 10 minute walk across the border – sweet freedom!
One dusty day in Reynosa, I was 2 or 7 hours into a Cantina Crawl when I turned the corner and saw 4-5 dudes performing an act that I had never seen before. I’ll never get that sight out of my head. I know what you are thinking. It wasn’t that….Miss Jackson, if you’re nasty.
If you were to combine: 1. Dancing around a Maypole without the ribbons and 2. The pole being about a million feet tall with 3. Men dressed in colorful, feathery costumes swinging upside down with ropes tied to their waists and 4. A high probability that someone was going to fall off and die, then that would partially describe the Dance of the Flyers (or Danza de los Voladores in Spanish). And then, of course there’s the flute blowing and drum banging.
Needless to say, I put my Cantina Crawl on hold and wondered if the 8 tequila shots had officially kicked in while I watched this Mexican ceremony unfold in front of me. I didn’t know what I was looking at, but it was pretty badass and nobody died…that day. Some other guy did though, but I’ll get to that in a second.
Fast forward 20 years (OK, it’s closer to 28) and I find myself wandering around México in search of a good time again. This time I was in Chapala, Jalisco strolling down the Malecón (boardwalk) looking out over Lake Chapala when the flashback of that first Dance of the Flyers hits me – hard. There were 4 dudes spinning through the air in majestic feathery outfits with ropes slowly lowering them 50-ish feet down to the ground on the shore of the lake while one stayed on top blowing the shit out of an old school flute and beating a drum he must have picked up from a toy store. Luckily my spouse had his trusty GoPro on him. Check it….
This time witnessing the Dance of the Flyers felt more peaceful and super cultural. It was the perfect combination of a timeless Mexican tradition with just enough danger to keep the crowd riveted. As I do in situations like this, I bought another oversized margarita and decided to learn more about this whole ritual that I had been referring to as “Mexican MayPoling, not A-holing”. Because neither one is correct. Who knew?
The Dance of the Flyers (Danza de los Voladores) tradition started in Papantla, Veracruz to appease the Gods.
The Dance of the Flyers was first known as ‘The Papantla Flying Men’ which had started in Papantla, Veracruz as a way to offer gratitude to the Gods of Sun, Spring, Fertility and Rain, and an all around expression of love for Mother Earth. Versions of this were a big religious deal for at least 3 native Mexican tribes in central Mexico in pre-Columbian days.
Now it is mostly associated with the Totonacs. They are/were an indigenous tribe who lived in Veracruz, Puebla and Hidalgo and who used to be the world’s main producers of vanilla!
As usual, Wikipedia has to weigh in…”According to Totonac myth, at least 450 years ago there was a severe drought that brought hunger to the people. The gods were withholding the rain because the people had neglected them. The ceremony was created, to appease the gods and bring back the rains. In some versions of the story, the ritual is created by the old men of a village, who then chose five young men who were chaste (aka virgins!). In other versions, the five men themselves create the ritual. The tallest tree in the nearby forest is cut down, with the permission of the mountain god, stripped of branches and dragged to the village. The trunk is erected (erected!) with much ceremony. The youths climb the pole and four jump off while the fifth played music. The ritual pleased the rain god Xipe Totec and other gods, so the rains began again and the fertility of the earth returned.”
Anyhoo, when the dirty evil Spaniards invaded Mexico they tried to expunge this tradition from Native Mexican history since it is soooooo not Catholic – literally they destroyed records about it because they thought it was pagan. As if.
The Totonac people of Veracruz practiced in secret (on a 30 meter pole?!) and kept this tradition alive. Now it doesn’t serve so much as offerings to multiple gods as it is used for entertainment and to teach the Mexican youth about their mixed heritage. Plus, it is now an actual J-O-B, like you can make some coin…”Makin’ it rain!”
The Ritual Ceremony of the Voladores of Papantla was officially recognized as an Intangible cultural heritage by UNESCO in 2009 marking its significance in Mexican history and helping the ritual survive and thrive in the modern world.
There are now Dance of the Flyer demonstrations all throughout northern and central Mexico and even down into Guatemala. For example, (pic above) on the clear opposite side of the country from Veracruz is me in Puerto Vallarta with a Birdman just after here was lowered back down to Earth next to the Pacific Ocean. Nice guy. Always 1 or 2 of the crew walk throughout the crowd asking for a few pesos after each performance and happily pose for pictures. Can’t say what the guy up top blowing his toy flute and drum does with his time, but he probably gets great cell reception up there.
The Flyers intricately wrap their ropes around the top of the pole so as to not die.
It goes like this: The Flyers climb up the pole, called the tsakáe kiki, carrying their ropes. Poles range in height from 50 to 100 feet depending on if it is an actual tree trunk or made of metal. When they are at the top they sit on the sketchy looking wooden square frame and start wrapping the pole. They do this by slowly turning the wooden square clockwise around the top of the pole while each rope is wrapped under the next one securing each others’ rope. “Don’t go dyin’ on us!”
After they fall backwards, the wooden top slowly rotates in a counterclockwise direction with their weight spinning the wooden frame and their ropes slowly lowering them to Earth. Some pretty solid engineering that’s been successfully tested for generations. As long as they stay completely still…nothing will go wrong!
The Flyers are also called Birdmen.
The flyers, much like birds, climb up towards the sun and then fall off of their perch spinning through the sky each representing a parrot, macaw, quetzal and an eagle. The legend also mentions the flyers representing a butterfly, crow and an owl so either way, they are spinning Birdmen. They spin 13 times around the pole (representing 52 years in the Aztec calendar round) upside down with their legs and arms specifically positioned so they look like birds flying through the air. They remain completely still throughout their descent until they grab their ropes and turn themselves right side up just as they touch the ground.
They end up landing like you do when you’re skydiving and haven’t fucked up your descent. Or the wind hasn’t yanked you on your ass with your parachute like it did to me that one time. I would not be a good Birdman or woman for that matter. It’s a good thing too, cuz…
Females were not allowed to be Pole Flyers until the early 1970’s.
Once upon a time (the early 70’s), a man by the name of Jesús Arroyo Cerón taught his 4 daughters to be Flyers in Puebla…pretty progressive dad! But proving this isn’t the safest hobby/job you can learn, Jesús plummeted to his death during a cultural festival in 2006 at the age of 70. Eek.
Some traditionalists (and even some of his family members) claim that this was divine retribution for teaching ladies to do a ‘man’s’ job. For generations only men were allowed to be flyers. This shitty sexism still exists today since the school for flyers in Veracruz has two criteria to be accepted into the program: The student must speak Totonac and be male. Total bull crap.
At least we can say ‘Salud!’ to Jesús Arroyo Cerón for trying to empower his daughters by teaching them an art form, religious ritual and solid Mexican tradition in a male dominated profession. Bust through the glass ceiling of the Dance of the Flyers – Vamanos Girl Power Voladores!!
Girls trapesing around a pole has traditionally been associated with MayPoling. Just to clarify again that MayPoling is a totally different thing from the Dance of the Flyers AND regular pole dancing. VERY DIFFERENT. Since I made the mistake for so long and since May is upon us, I want to clarify the difference between Pole Flying, Pole Dancing and MayPoling – I’ll spare you the A-Holing…for now.
According to the Mother Nature Network, “The first of May is a contradiction as far as days of observance go. It’s a holiday suffering from multiple personality disorder; one identity dedicated to strike and protest, the other embracing all things spring and frolicsome.
May Day (May 1) is probably best known now for the medieval tradition of ‘dancing the maypole dance,’ a custom that continues to be practiced. Fair young maidens circle the decorated pole weaving together patterns of ribbons in the process. Hawthorne and lily of the valley are traditional flowers used for garland. Similar ribbon dances were performed in pre-Columbian Latin America and were later incorporated into Hispanic ritual dances.”
See how we brought that full circle?! I knew I wasn’t completely that far off. Both customs have always reminded me of the movie musical, “Camelot” when Vanessa Redgrave frolics around singing “The Lusty Month of May!” while loads of young women wrap their ribbons around the Maypole. Lusty indeed.
So some advice this May Day for all you young ladies out there (all you broads too, I suppose)…when someone tells you to stay off the pole…you just tell them to be more specific!
Are you looking for more inspiration from México? Check out the TexMex Fun Stuff Blog for more sights, sounds and badass-ness uncovered while exploring México searching for handmade fun stuff for you!
The first mermaid I ever saw in ‘real life’ was Daryl Hannah in the movie “Splash”. Yes, I realize that she wasn’t an actual mermaid, but my 12 year old brain was absolutely certain that she was ‘the real deal’ and I was enchanted!
‘Madison’, as Daryl was called, was a beautiful woman with flowing blond hair that always managed to cover her boobies and as soon as she hit the water she turned into a beautiful mermaid. One thing that never made sense to me even as a kid (cuz it was straight up bullshit) is the fact that she was only allowed out of her ‘Under the Sea World’ for 7 days with Tom Hanks. Total bullshit. Anyway, she’s my mermaid muse…for now 😉
As it turns out I wasn’t the only one entranced by mermaids, or ‘sirenas’, as they are known as in Spanish. The first tales of mermaids were told in ancient Assyria over 3,000 years ago when (allegedly) a goddess named Atargatis transformed herself into a mermaid out of shame. She accidentally killed her human lover and was so upset that she flung herself into the sea – possibly attempting suicide. But since she was a goddess and suicide isn’t really their thing, this was the punishment that she forced upon herself. Tough broad.
In early Greek mythology, mermaids were associated with tragic events like floods, shipwrecks and drownings. Sirens (sirenas) would lure in unsuspecting sailors with their sexy music and sensual voices that floated with the winds across the waters. When the sailors redirected their ships to investigate further, they found themselves slamming into rocky islands, sinking their ships and generally experiencing a shit ton of peril. These sirens were talented, clever and a little crazy, like me.
The first historical reference to sirens/sirenas/mermaids was in 1493 when Christopher Columbus was exploring the Caribbean islands. He noted that he saw three ‘female forms’ rise high out of the sea. Now of course, The History Channel wants to make this whole event seem a lot less sexy by throwing “facts” into the mix. Here’s what they say in 3 short and shitty paragraphs…
“Italian explorer Christopher Columbus, sailing near the Dominican Republic, sees three ‘mermaids’ – in reality manatees – and describes them as “not half as beautiful as they are painted.” Six months earlier, Columbus (1451-1506) set off from Spain across the Atlantic Ocean with the Nina, Pinta and Santa Maria, hoping to find a western trade route to Asia. Instead, his voyage, the first of four he would make, led him to the Americas, or ‘New World.’
Mermaids, mythical half-female, half-fish creatures, have existed in seafaring cultures at least since the time of the ancient Greeks. Typically depicted as having a woman’s head and torso, a fishtail instead of legs and holding a mirror and comb, mermaids live in the ocean and, according to some legends, can take on a human shape and marry mortal men. Mermaids are closely linked to sirens, another folkloric figure, part-woman, part-bird, who live on islands and sing seductive songs to lure sailors to their deaths.
Mermaid sightings by sailors, when they weren’t made up, were most likely manatees, dugongs or Steller’s sea cows.”
MANATEES and SEA COWS? SEA COWS?!?! How dare The History Channel!! Back to historical fantasy now…
The infamous 18th Century pirate, Blackbeard (whose real name was Edward Teach – lame right?) wrote in his journal that he instructed his crew to avoid certain charted waters known to be ‘enchanted’ with mermaids looking to bewitch ships and steal their bounty of riches…something Blackbeard was not going to tolerate. Not even from hot chicks.
It took writers and historians another 100+ years before mermaids were considered enchanting and waaaaay less dangerous than pirates thought. In 1836, Hans Christian Andersen penned the now well-known fairy tale, “The Little Mermaid”. The book depicted mermaids as sweet and loving non-thieves who just want to become human. This tale has since been depicted in operas, paintings, books, comics and of course, films. Yes, THAT Little Mermaid is THAT old.
In 1989, Walt Disney Pictures released their full-length animated film based on Andersen’s tale. The appropriately titled “The Little Mermaid” movie was “Splash”-level cool for 3 reasons:
Ariel wore a kick ass purple seashell bikini top. I have tried this and failed since 1984.
All religious references from the original tale were removed from the film, including the mermaid’s quest for an immortal soul, because that would interfere with the comedy, cuteness and romance with the Prince.
The lead character was a gorgeous, independent and rebellious young woman. Typical red head.
I know there was a 90’s Mermaid movie with Cher and another teen queen one with Emma Roberts or some shit, but those don’t count. If we’re talking about the most epic portrayal of mermaid-ness in a movie since “Splash” that would, of course, be “Zoolander”.
Ben Stiller strikes his ‘Blue Steel!’ underwater pose as a MerMAN to deliver cinematic greatness! “Moisture is the essence of wetness and wetness is the essence of beauty.” Truer words were never spoken. Check it…
Classic. “I got the black lung, Pop. (Cough)” OK, no more digression. I hear there was a 17th installment of “The Pirates of the Caribbean” that involved some mermaid on merman shit, but who’s got the time? Not Johnny Depp.
The last point about mermaids/sirenas that I want to address is the iconic La Sirena image that belongs to the classic Mexican ‘bingo-like’ game called La Loteria. You have seen this image many times, but probably never assumed the image (or the game for that matter) had much significance. Well, it’s significant as shit and here’s why…
Direct from Wikipedia, yo…”Lotería is the Spanish word for lottery. The game originated in Italy in the 15th century and was brought to New Spain (México) in 1769. In the beginning, la lotería was a hobby of the upper classes, but eventually it became a tradition at Mexican fairs. Now it is played by many Mexicans at home or in cantinas.
It is a traditional game of chance, similar to Bingo, but using images on a deck of cards instead of plain numbers on ping pong balls. The deck of cards is composed of a set of 54 different images, each one in a card. To start the game, the caller (cantor, or singer) randomly selects a card from the deck and announces it to the players by its name, sometimes using a riddle instead of reading the card name.”
#6 would be La Sirena. Here is the calling of the card…
Numero Seis! La sirena! (the mermaid) “Con los cantos de sirena, no te vayas a marear.” = Don’t be swayed by the songs of the siren (In Spanish, sirens and mermaids and their songs are synonymous). So don’t be swayed.
Finally, my boyfriend, Channing Tatum has committed to an Imagine Entertainment produced “Splash” remake where the leading roles are reversed and he is a MerMAN leaving his Under the Sea world to go find his childhood non-swimming lover girl in NYC. This proves the importance of Mer-People if he is investing his time, energy and beautiful face for this mission. God bless him. And Ron Howard. Coming to screens 2020-ish.
And I’m sure my sweet Channing will sing the immortal words of the Jamaican crab, Sebastian ….
“Under the sea! Under the sea! Darling it’s better Down where it’s wetter Take it from me!”
So with all of the Splashy Mermaid obsession going on, we decided to collaborate with our papel picado artists in Puebla to create both paper and plastic The Little Mermaid / La Sirenita papel picado! Get your choice of material and color schemes for your next Fish Fry, Cinco de Mayo event or kid’s birthday party!
Are you looking for more inspiration from México? Check out the TexMex Fun Stuff Blog for more sights, sounds and badass-ness uncovered while exploring México searching for handmade fun stuff for you!
Mariachis are a combo of Western movie outlaws, Mexican folklore and a little bit of rock and roll with polka and waltz mixed in. These musicians are always in groups of 3-10 and dressed up in emblazoned costumes ready to kick ass and look and sound FABULOUS doing it. You know, like Lucky Day, Dusty Bottoms and Ned Nederlander?! #thethreeamigos!
The first time I was introduced to the concept of mariachis was the 1986 movie, ‘¡Three Amigos!’ and I’ve never been the same. Freakin’ Chevy Chase, Steve Martin and Martin Short in their matching charro outfits, huge sombreros and musical mastery had me laughing and singing along wondering where the hell the writers got the idea from. “MY little buttercup, has the sweetest smile…..”
OK, so they were more of a comical crime fighting team than a true mariachi band, but the classic scene at El Guapo’s birthday was performed by a group of real mariachis that kill it! Aayayayayayayay!
This scene (as well as “Blue Shadows on the Trail”) prompted me to check out good old Wikipedia for more info on these classical Mexican musicians. I learned that…
‘Mariachi’ is a style of music and musical group performance that dates back to at least the 18th century, evolving over time in the countryside of various regions of western Mexico. It has a distinctive instrumentation, performance and singing style and of course, clothing. To say the least.
Armed with trumpets, violins, cellos, guitars, crazy high voices and charro suits, these bands are torn from the pages of Mexican history books, turning any event into a raging Mexican fiesta. As a matter of fact, in 2011 UNESCO recognized mariachi as an Intangible Cultural Heritage. The listing cites that: “Mariachi music transmits values of respect for the natural heritage of the regions of Mexico and local history in the Spanish language and the different Indian languages of Western Mexico.” And you don’t dick with UNESCO.
The term ‘Mariachi band’ is also a redundant term for a Mariachi because the word ‘Mariachi’ itself in Spanish implies a group of musicians playing Mariachi music. The music originated in center-West-ish Mexico. Most claims for its origin lie in the state of Jalisco but neighboring states of Colima, Nayarit, and Michoacán have also claimed it. However, by the late 19th century, the music was firmly centered in Jalisco.
And guess where I was now living?! YEP. In the birth canal of Mariachi-dom…Jalisco, Mexico. Time to start tracking down some bands and getting some answers to the question…How did this musical genre get to be so badass? When you hear it…all you can think of is Mexican westerns and Cinco de Mayo parties. I stepped out my front door and started searching…
Clearly my first stop was the Plaza De Los Mariachis in Guadalajara, which is a pedestrian-only plaza in the historic center. This plaza has over 100 years of tradition, but was officially dedicated to Mariachis in 1962 by the then President of México, Adolfo López Mateos. The plaza got a second resurgence in 2009 when Gustavo Ruiz Velasco Nuño invested $7 million pesos (about $350,000 USD) to revitalize the facades, arches and the colonial homes facing the plaza.
Today, these former homes have been converted into restaurants, musical supply stores and clothing/accessories shops for mariachis to buy their unmistakable costume gear. There’s even a tequila and “tequila paraphernalia” store which is where I I presume they stock up and where I certainly stocked up for later.
One thing that I didn’t find on this Sunday in the plaza were actual mariachis playing music. Weird right? Maybe Sundays are their day to drink tequila and cerveza and spend time with their families? Oh well. The plaza was adorned with colorful papel picado flags decorating the sky so I was okay listening to them flutter in the breeze instead. Plus, I had tequila so it was going to be a Sunday Funday with or without mariachis!
My next research stop was none other than the town of Tequila, Jalisco – the birth canal of tequila. It’s only a one hour car drive or a 2 hour train from Guadalajara, so why the hell not. Two great tastes that taste great together! I needed to interview an insider and if there weren’t any inside the Plaza of Mariachis for God’s sake, I figured there HAD to be some in Tequila!
I wasn’t wrong (as per usual ;). Here is what I discovered as I stepped off of the Jose Cuervo Express train…or as I like to call it, “Allison decides to drink booze before 9am because it’s all inclusive”:
IMMEDIATELY as we stepped off the train, these dudes started playing. And playing hard. I was already wasted as you could probably tell from the video so I wasn’t in interview mode at the time. I decided to just record and commentate instead.
This mariachi band’s secret weapon were the two adorable boys in the front. I don’t even like kids (as I mention in the video), but I was ready to take them both home if they promised to never ever talk and only play mariachi music. Instead of kidnapping them, I opted for the Jose Cuervo distillery tour because I was getting thirsty. Again.
My day in Tequila went something like this….Tequila, mariachis and singing, Jose Cuervo distillery tour and singing, super filthy cantina and singing. And then back to Jose Cuervo’s agave field with dancing and more singing. I was thinking that what these mariachi bands really needed was a female singer (aka me), but what I discovered next was even better…
(After waking up from day drinking in Tequila) I continued my quest to discover how mariachis became synonymous with pretty much all fun things Mexican. In my mind, I’ve always pictured mariachis as these hombres with cool mustaches, machismo costumes and these booming voices projecting Mexican folk songs to party goers. My mind was blown when I discovered an article from the NY Times from 2013 titled, “An All-Female Band, Making Its Way in the World of Mariachi.” Holy fuck, GIRL POWER MARIACHIS!!
“There’s something about putting on a mariachi suit that makes you feel like a badass.” – Mireya Ramos, Founder Mariachi Flor De Toloache
The New York-based, GRAMMY award winning and all-female mariachi band, Mariachi Flor de Toloache, was founded by Mireya Ramos in 2008 as a way for women to join forces in a safe environment and create and perform mariachi music. They have gone on to win the Latin Grammy Award for Best Ranchero/Mariachi Album and are the most diverse mariachi group in the world. The members hail from Mexico, Puerto Rico, Dominican Republic, Cuba, Australia, Columbia, Germany, Italy and the United States!
Although only one of these ladies is Mexican, these worldwide badasses took a musical genre that for generations had been steeped in Mexican machismo and owned it as a path to empowerment, diversity, strength and fame. Y’all know I dig that. #TheFutureIsFemale
Their most recent single was released on Valentines Day, 2019. Besos De Mezcal – ‘Kisses of Mezcal’ was produced by Camilo Lara, who produced all of the music for Pixar’s “Coco” (and I do love me some Coco!).
So basically, after all that tequila and web surfing I didn’t get a whole lot of information that Wikipedia hadn’t already told me, BUT I did get rip roaring drunk and made a pretty neat girl power discovery! So saludos mis amigas! Now I’m going to go find me a kiss of Mezcal and celebrate. Again. Ayayayayayayay!! BTW…this here below is a little bonus!
I would like to dedicate this post to Ashlei Mars Austgen and Becky Fabra Beach for reasons they know.
Are you looking for more inspiration from México? Check out the TexMex Fun Stuff Blog for more sights, sounds and badass-ness uncovered while exploring México searching for handmade fun stuff for you!