Dia de los Muertos – “I was not forgotten…”

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Please refer to my Day of the Dead Fiesta blog post before reading this…

What can I say, I hate repeating myself.

So, I have honored pets, friends and family members whom have passed before, but 2023 Dia de los Muertos was very different for me.  Hate to start on a bummer note, but my dad died from a Covid-related/Parkinson’s Disease related combo on October 27, 2022.  Obviously, celebrating his life on November 1st and 2nd, 2022 was a bit too soon and we were still in North Carolina sorting out the ugly business of death anyway.

David Laurent Kern aka Dad

As luck would have it, I learned that if you don’t wait for at least a full year after a loved one has died and you summon their souls back to commune with you on Dia de los Muertos, you will fuck up their whole afterlife…crisis averted!!

Also of note, always put a photo of your soul to remember on the altar BUT NEVER IF there are other people in the photo who are still alive! 

Those last two lines have not been officially documented, so much as verbally verified by my Mexican friends whom have been building altars all of their lives.  According to other randos on Reddit, “The superstition is that putting a picture of a living person on an ancestor alter will ‘push’ the living person closer to death.”  EEK.

Not bad for the first official Day of the Dead Altar!

Sorry, I just used those last paragraphs to distract myself from the loss of Dad and why his death changed the significance of Día de los Muertos and especially the altars de ofrendas for me.

My kick ass therapist, who is Mexican and wise as shit had many things to say in our post-Dia de los Muertos session 2 days ago…First and most importantly, Dia de los Muertos is the commemoration of a collective consciousness.  It is the Aztec tradition of ‘ancestor veneration’.

“WTF is veneration?” you ask! I asked too. Veneration is respect or awe inspired by the dignity, wisdom, dedication, or talent of a person (as per Merriam-Webster).

Ancestor veneration is sort of like ancestor worship and is based on love and respect for the deceased as well as to ensure the ancestors’ continued well-being in the afterlife. We already covered all of the history behind why the Pre-Hispanic Mexicans celebrate Dia de los Muertos in the blog post mentioned earlier, but I want to drill down on the significance of altar building and the benefits of communing with those we have lost.

Me and Dad at his 50th birthday and at my wedding. 7 years and several pounds apart!

Let’s start with the meaning of ‘altar’ as per my favorite and yours, Merriam-Webster…”a usually raised structure or place on which sacrifices are offered or incense is burned in worship.”

 “Altar” is from the Latin word ‘altārium’ which means high…In fact, the altar should not only be a raised structure, but should also have several levels with the most recently deceased placed at the highest point of the structure.

This placement represents the level of their journey to Mictlán, the land of the dead.  In my dad’s case, since he was the most recent to pass, his photo should have been at the very top. This is because he has not been journeying as long through the 8 levels of the afterlife as my dog, Deuce and my Grandparents have, let’s say.  In fact, I put his picture on the same level as my dogs, but higher than the photos of my grandparents and friend, Julie….Rookie mistake.

Julie Boerner, my first friend. My mom’s parents. Dad’s parents are not pictured because I couldn’t find a photo without alive people in it!

Here are some things I added to the altar as offerings to draw my people close for the 2 days which is the celebration we call Dia de los Muertos…

1. A sealed bag of 1976 quarters from the Philadelphia U.S.Mint – Dad’s coin collection is massive and he really enjoyed collecting with the secondary hope of it being truly valuable someday. Putting this bag up there surprisingly summoned so many memories of his generosity. I had forgotten how many times he bailed me out of monetary situations especially in college, immediately after I graduated and when I went out into that big, scary, unprofitable working world. I cried tears of gratitude as I mentally rolodexed the long list of examples where he was much more generous than he needed to be.

The coin bag and a silver necklace with Dad’s thumbprint as a charm – gift from the funeral home.

2. Dogs – I had a lot of dogs in my life thanks to my dad’s absolute love of them. Two of my and my husband’s were as much our sons as any human child, so I put pictures of them up there with Dad – on his level!  Although, not technically correct, my therapist assures me that I accidentally scored on this one!

Sooooo, Xolos, which are the Mexican hairless dogs (like Dante in the movie ‘Coco’) are considered the leaders of the afterworld pack, and their little souls lead the human souls to the altars de ofrendas and then back again to Mictlán…Happy Accident – Deuce and Santo were my dad’s guides to meet me here in Mexico City!

Deuce and Santo’s altar vantage points respectively

After this revelation I decided that next year I will add Whiskey, Dad’s last pup which he loved very much.  #sorrywhiskeygirl

3. Salt – In Spanish we say “sal” and evidently ‘sal’ is the base word for ‘salary’ #funfact 🧂

Since salt was so valuable back in the Roman and Aztec times, it was traded as currency.  It really does make life more tasty! Also, salt is considered a purifying substance and the color white represents purity ‘to ensure that the body remains untainted along the journey back to Mictlán.’ 🤷‍♀️

Needless to say, I fucked up and added olives to Dad’s martini thinking they would pass as salt since they are so salty…This was NOT an acceptable substitution as it turns out and I got schooled by my therapist.

Next year, I will still give my dad his olives, but I will cover the salt element with ACTUAL salt!

Of course, I had the other altar essentials such as the Mexican marigold, Pan de Muertos, Papel Picado and candles. I blew off the incense and got schooled again that I really should have leaned into that element more.  #noevilspiritsplease

All in all, for my first altar I didn’t do too bad. One thing I absolutely nailed was the communing part – spending time remembering Dad, Granddaddy and Becca, my dear sweet Julie, MomMom and PopPop and of course my babies, Deuce and Santo Crudo.

The remembering is the key. I spent two full nights just sitting there with my martini toasting these awesome people and animals that I was lucky to have in my life for a short period of time. Too short, of course, but such is life…and death.

So there I was in front of my amazing altar, albeit a semi-incorrect one, just remembering and drinking.  Bad combo usually, but not on November 1st and 2nd.  It wasn’t a bad combo at all. Hanging out with Dad, who of course had his own martini, and me just silently running through all the classic stories. Tears were shed and loud guffaws were burst, just like old times.

Pro Tip from Behind the Scenes: Keep A LOT of Kleenex handy!

I literally heard myself say, “Remember that time when…” and then realizing that no one physically in my realm was going to answer.  But I still felt heard. It felt like I had the same camaraderie as we had at Dad’s funeral after party, when cousins, friends, aunts and uncles would recall stories and we would all laugh. Sure, now I was technically alone, but I did not feel alone at all. My people were with me on the floor in my living room in Mexico City.

The thing that made me sad was knowing that November 3rd, the altar would come down and life would go on until this time next year. It was such a letdown that morning. Sweeping away the marigold petals and putting away the candles and framed photos to where they normally go made me tear up again. 

We had such fun hanging out for a couple of days! BOO! And not the ghost kind of BOO which is cute and fun and scary. It was the dread BOO. Damn the dread. But, gotta go to work and grocery shop and do laundry and all that regular shit. So, until next year, my loves, I have to say goodbye.

How I would like to think Mictlán looks and feels. Courtesy of Disney/Pixar’s Coco!

It is time to watch Disney’s Coco again and hope to God that Disney’s top execs will release Coco 2 already, those rat bastards! It is already produced and in the can, they just haven’t released it – BOO!  Oh well, until then, we have the song from the beloved original movie, ‘Recuerdame’…

“Remember me, though I have to say goodbye

Remember me, don’t let it make you cry.

For even if I’m far away I hold you in my heart

I sing a secret song to you each night that we are apart.

Remember me, though I have to travel far

Remember me, each time you hear a sad guitar…

Know that I’m with you the only way that I can be

Until you’re in my arms again, Remember me.”

Altar de ofrenda essentials
Sugar Skull – an essential element of the altar

Other Dia de los Muertos thoughts from my kick ass therapist:

  1. Sugar skulls – I really didn’t know the significance of them, other than they are easier to purchase than an actual human skull (which in ancient times, the Aztecs would dig up their relatives’ bones, dust them off and place the bones and skulls on the altar too).

After the altars have been dismantled, Mexicans eat sugar skulls like candy or in their coffee! Heads up – they will melt in humidity so if you live in a warm and humid climate, don’t try this at home! Maybe purchase a ceramic skull to represent the “bones” so that your altar doesn’t become a sticky mess!

2. “De mas alla” means ‘from the beyond’.  She assures me that Dad was laughing at my jokes from beyond and that Santo Crudo and Deuce led him back to Mictlán safely. #wortheverypennyoftherapy

And so, “Mi Papi, mi Padre, Dad: hasta la proxima de mas alla!”

Dad throughout the years! May Mictlán serve both martinis AND margaritas!

Day of the Dead – the Biggest Fiesta in México for Dead People

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Day of the Dead La Catrina in Guanajuato.

It was a balmy 86º November evening when I found myself slowly shuffling down the main street of Mérida, Yucatan surrounded by a shitload of people carrying candles and dressed as dead people. I was in a crowd of thousands and all I heard was silence. We were quietly walking to the cemetery and I was about to experience my first Day of the Dead, aka Día de los Muertos (Spanish), aka Hanal Pixán (Mayan).

Of course I had heard of Day of the Dead and thought that it was just a bunch of people dressing up like skeletons. “Oh, that’s just like Halloween!” Nope, not a damn thing like Halloween.

Shit’s about to get real. | Photo: Marival Resorts

I had been living in Mérida for about 10 months by the time October 2011 rolled around. Once October started, everyone in the city began planning for this upcoming, um, holiday?, event?, party?, celebration? The name ‘Day of the Dead’ doesn’t sound like much of a party, but people were acting like this was the most important fiesta of the year.

Day of the Dead is in fact a three day celebration each year from October 31 – November 2nd. It’s an opportunity to commemorate family and friends that have “advanced on their eternal journey.” In the Mexican culture, death is viewed as a natural part of the human cycle. During this time, the living family members pray for the temporary return of their loved ones who now reside in the afterlife/world/place. They share stories of the ancestors who have passed and celebrate their former lives.

Aztecs – Lady of the Dead

La Calavera Catrina by Illustrator José Guadalupe Posada | Photo: Wikipedia

The ancient origin of Día de los Muertos in México goes back to the Aztec festival dedicated to the ‘Lady of the Dead’, which in modern times is referred to as La Calavera Catrina. The artist José Guadalupe Posada was the first person to illustrate the goddess in a zinc etching in 1910. She’s super hot, as far as skeletons go.

So anyway, in Aztec mythology, this Lady was named Mictēcacihuātl and was queen of the underworld. She ruled over the afterlife with her hubby. No one ever mentions him, but she was responsible for watching over the bones of the dead and presiding over the ancient festivals of the dead. #respect

The Aztecs in México and central America celebrated Mictēcacihuātl for the entire 8th month of the Aztec calendar year (sometime in the middle of the summer). They partied, danced and sang instead of mourning because being sad for dead people was considered an insult to them. Therefore, they fiesta’ed with food, drink and activities that the dead had enjoyed while they were alive.

Allison with a real-life, dead Catrina and her skeleton dog. | Photo: TexMex Fun Stuff

The two most familiar symbols of the Aztec version of Day of the Dead are Catrinas and Catrins (dead chicks and dead dudes, respectively). You will either see these images as calacas or calaveras (skulls and skeletons, respectively). The calaveras are always dressed up in colorful outfits and having a blast dancing, drinking, flailing around and generally enjoying the afterlife. If that is what death is all about then rock on!

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The calacas, being just dead heads, are usually hanging out on an altar that their family created with a big smile on their face…happily watching the living pay tribute and tell stories about them!

Spanish Catholics – All Saints Day

Day of the Dead girl in Merida v1
Girl Dressed as a Catrina for Day of the Dead in Merida. | Photo: Neil Haapamaki, The Diplomat Hotel Merida

The Spanish invaded México in the 1500’s and brought with them their Catholic religion. This may not sound very Christian, but basically they made a point of enslaving the Aztecs and telling them their customs and beliefs were stupid. Typical evangelicals. The synthesis of Catholicism with the Aztecs’ tradition results in an adjustment of the dates to make Day of the Dead more in line with existing Catholic death-celebrating holidays.

The Spanish moved the celebration from the 8th month of the Aztec year to October 31st – November 2nd of the Gregorian calendar so that it would land on All Saints and All Souls days. Pushy af, but here’s why…

All Saints Day, according to Christianity.com has this origin…”In the early years when the Roman Empire persecuted Christians, so many martyrs died for their faith, that the Church set aside special days to honor them…In the 8th century, All Saints Day was changed by Pope Gregory III to today’s date–November 1. People prepared for their celebration with a night of vigil on Hallows’ Eve — Halloween (possibly because of the strong holdover influence of the Celtic Samhain festival which many Christians in Ireland, Britain Scotland and Wales had continued to observe).”

Mayans – Hanal Pixán

Hanal Pixán altar in Merida, Yucatan | Photo: Mark Callum

The Mayans in the Yucatan Peninsula refer to Day of the Dead / Dia de los Muertos as Hanal Pixán and it lasts for 3 days starting October 31st. Sound familiar? Well that’s because the Spanish conquered them too.

Mayan families construct altars in their homes honoring their lost relatives/buddies. These altars include the dead’s favorite food, drinks and games plus they add candles, pictures and symbols of their lives. They even go as far as moving the furniture in their houses to create a pathway from the front door to the altars to help their loved ones’ souls know where to arrive. You know, rearranging all the furniture for guests.

Day of the Dead altar.
Altar for Family. This ole boy obviously loved his sweet breads, tamales and Mezcal! The beans are weird. | Photo: Neil Haapamaki, The Diplomat Hotel Merida

The first night of Hanal Pixán (Oct. 31) is reserved for celebrating the all too short lives of the children whom have passed. Their offerings include toys, chocolates and sweets. The adult souls are not honored until November 1st.

To honor the souls of adults, boozy treats are placed on the altars with candles and their favorite foods. I’m now making a point to start my Day of the Dead celebrations on November 1st for this reason. I’m avoiding the first night because I’m not into kids, especially dead ones. #goingtohell

They close out the 3 day death-fest with a long, slow, silent walk through the center of town. They call it “Paseo de Ánimas” or “Promenade of the Souls”. Everyone wears typical Mayan clothing and have calaca sugar skull faces painted on by street artists. The whole town walks to the main cemetery…so THAT is what I was caught up in that November night in 2011!

Day of the Dead in Merida.
A Catrina and Catrin in the Día de los Muertos celebration in Merida, Yucatan | Photo: The Merida Yucatan Bulletin

Then suddenly the mood changes and a celebration breaks out in the cemetery! It’s magical and like a scene straight out of Pixar’s Coco. People were actually dancing, laughing and decorating the graves of their loved ones with flowers, candles, pictures and gifts. Beers were popping open. Stark difference from the silent mode we were in for blocks and blocks! I def prefer this part of the ritual.

Gringos – Halloween

Adorbs, right? Meh. | Photo: https://www.news-press.com

I really did think Day of the Dead was the same as Halloween and it turns out I wasn’t completely wrong. Halloween (All Hallows’ Eve) originated in Ireland and is celebrated on October 31st. As you know most Irish are Catholics and they had the same idea as the Spanish when it came to bastardizing holidays.

So basically European Catholics wanted to celebrate the night before All Saints Day. Which is also known as “A Feast for All Saints” OR “All Hallows’ Day”. So Halloween is the eve of this Christian holiday. Traditionally in Ireland, Spain and other Catholic countries, it is common for families to attend church and visit cemeteries in order to lay flowers and candles on the graves of their deceased loved ones. It’s all coming full circle.

Dia de Los Muertos Calacas
Allison spending time with and dressing up as Catrinas for Day of the Dead | Photo: TexMex Fun Stuff

So Halloween / All Hallow’s Eve is the night that the descendants of Mayans and Aztecs celebrate the souls of dead children. Somehow this morphed into Americans thinking, “Hey, the way to celebrate the souls of dead children is to form a path of candy and dress up like all the fun things these kids use to love and that will help show their little kid spirits the way home!” Am I going to hell? Probably. Please join me!

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Anyway, I was trick-or-treating as a kid in the States on the same night that the Mayans were honoring children’s souls in the Yucatan. It seems blasphemous now, but it was a fabulous idea then and made October my favorite month of the year! It also made November the most sugar crazed hell on Earth for my parents. I do get the connection of luring a spirit back by displaying / handing out things they loved (candy) while they were with us in this life. Check out these comparisons below:

Day of the Dead vs. Halloween | Credit: diffen.com

Mexicans really love American traditions. We gringos celebrate the fuck out of holidays that require dressing up and dealing candy like drugs. Now that I’m an adult, I bypass the whole trick or treating neighborhood deal. I do still enjoy dressing up as a dirty pirate hooker. Or a booby-licious Octoberfest chick. Or a Catrina.

Anyway, many Mexican families have adopted our tradition of dressing up the kids and dealing candy within neighborhoods. It is usually some night the week of or before Day of the Dead so that they can get their sugar fix and still be sacred on the correct date! They have it all! BOO!

Papel Picado Explosion during Day of the Dead.
Me buying fun stuff for you! | Photo: TexMex Fun Stuff | Buy on Amazon

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Day of the Dead Papel Picado
Catrins and Catrinas looking Good Being Dead! | Buy on Amazon

Are you looking for more inspiration from México? Check out the TexMex Fun Stuff Blog for more sights, sounds and badass-ness uncovered while exploring México searching for handmade fun stuff for you!

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